Update on 96 Volt AC Motor Package

I just looked at my stats and see that there are over a 1000 visits to my old post - 96 Volt AC Motor Package - so I thought it was time for an update!

First - my most relevant source or link for the motors of reference - the maker of them - is High Performance Electric Vehicle Systems - or HPEVS, and they have grown their product line since I discovered the motors back in January 2010!

Their page that lists the Drive Systems - shows the many choices they make. I had some thoughts earlier to go with the AC20 as a light weight replacement for my current DC Motor that is a GE unit weighing in at 170 lbs! Of late - I have been considering the AC35 - as a balance between weight and power/torque interests. Many people have recommended the AC50 - as the preferred motor of choice - but I see the extra 30 lbs as contrary to my goals.

I also see them bringing on two new interesting enhanced motor options - 144 Volt Motors coming soon (currently in vehicle testing), and Dual Motor (Siamese Twins) AC35x2!

Just who is this company? To Quote them:
"Who is Hi Performance Electric Vehicle Systems?
Hi Performance Electric Vehicle Systems (HPEVS) designs, develops and manufactures 3-phase AC induction drive systems for an array of vehicles and industries. These systems have been integrated into full-sized vehicles, neighborhood electric vehicles, golf carts, motorcycles, industrial/utility vehicles and even amusement park attractions. These systems are designed to achieve maximum distance, power and efficiency."

Looking more at the AC35 - as provided by one of the Vendors - Electric Motorsports EV Parts, we can see that at 96 Volts - the peak torque of 120 ft. lbs. and 55 Hp. is quite fine for a simple little Pontiac Firefly vehicle (Geo Metro) like my Electricfly! You can also see here on the CANEV site that the AC35 is also lighter than even the little Warp 8 Motor!

When Searching for Vendors of the Motors - usually pick one of them - and search for example:
AC-35 motor - or AC-50 motor - or maybe - AC-20 motor. A search for HPEVS motors gives some additional interesting results!

If you still think Electric is not the way to go - then consider what the influences are locally - and see Toronto Gas Prices! You get a feeling for what I am motivated by - considering 3.78 Litres = 1 US Gallon, and you can see our prices at $1.25/Litre = $4.725 a Gallon, and at $1.35/Litre = $5.103 a Gallon!

Drip, Drop, Drip - Open Primer Needs a Cover!

With the cooling weather - I have been attempting to get the Priming work finished and get the parts of the car I had been working on - painted.

The Roof was the start of this direction - and there were still some dimples and ripples in that - but I have managed to sand and fill with primer and get another coat of white paint up on the roof to seal it in, so hopefully that will hold over the Winter!

The Roof had been painted already - but in trying to sand and fill the remaining dimples - I felt since I had sanded through a few spots to the primer - I might as well give it a full coverage fresh coat of the Grey Primer - and then re-finish it with White Paint! I managed to get down a rough coat of White, but will likely have to sand it back again in spring!

The Hood - on the other hand - seems to have gotten behind the weather curve, and my available time - and still needs a few more priming and sanding cycles to smooth out some dimples and ripples, particularly at the forward edge.

I am trying to get at least as much done before snow comes, but the rain is no help too! Same with the freezing temps and working outside in the open just kills the deal!

I have been Mostly Wet Sanding with 240 Grit Wet or Dry paper, and moving to 320 Grit - Wet Sanding was already happening on the White Roof, before I re-Shot the Grey Primer!

Once I can clean up the dimples and ripples - I will start moving up from 240 to 320 - and on to 400, 600, and 800, If I have the patience for it, between paint layers.

I might top out at a medium level until I can get some of the other body parts taken car of first! Things like the Fenders and quarter panels and Doors, at least!

There is also the matter of the continuing under body - deep rust and metal mice chewing away at the car! After all - it is a 1989 Pontiac Firefly under the Electricfly project!

Put a Lid On it! (Battery Boxes Get Covered!)

Not yet finished - but on it's way - finally! After having the Battery Box Covers made up for the rear Battery Boxes (long ago!) - I have finally got started on getting them fitted!

The single battery box - required the total removal of the battery to proceed, so I had decided to take them all out - and have them tested, and cycled and tested again - to see what they would deliver for rated energy! One of our exhibitors for EV Fest 2012 has a 4-Battery cycle and test rig, so he has them at the moment.

Since I had the batteries out - I started work on getting the cover installed for the single.

There was a flat strap around the edge - but not wide enough to hold the clamp down bracket - so I cut two pieces of 1/16" x 1" flat aluminum bar about 1.25" long, and secured them in place using 'Mighty Putty' Epoxy that I had, clamped them in place, and let them cure for a day.

Then I used special Double Sided Sticky sheets, to temporarily hold the clips in place, aligning them by putting the lid on and clipping them to the closed position. After Carefully unlocking the lid, I clamped the clips in place one by one, and drilled first one hole, then bolted it and checked the cover fit - tweaking it for any alignment needs, before clamping the clip again to drill and bolt the second hole. I Did the same on both sides, then finished to tighten down the bolts.

With the single Battery Box Cover in Place - I began to deal with the issues of the main Rear Battery Box Cover and it's fit.

First - were the aft most flat edges, being at 90 degrees - they were scraping the plastic trim that was not in place when they were welded up, so I had to do some trimming and fitting - for a few fit cycles to get that right.

Then - was the issue of wire bundle clearance under the rear corners, and after hack-sawing, and grinding a few times, - I came up with cutting a much larger clearance, so I cut away more material, and used the 1" rotary File to Grind away and radius the corners for a safer, smoother clearance with fewer sharp edges.

Next - was the issue of the 4 original holes - that we first drilled in the side flanges along it's center-line, but they were along the edges of a dip, and on the side - where the hole - while vertical - would end up tipped inward on all 4 holes if I simply inserted the desired screw-nuts. So I decided to again get out the Mighty Putty - and simply use it to fill and level the space. First - I took my Wire Wheel (Actually - a synthetic replacement) in a 3" Dia. and using the Drill - I cleared away - Paint, Rust inhibitor, and underlying Rust, before using a small steam cleaner to cleanse the area of fine particles, dust, and crud. Drying that first with paper towel, and then my heat gun, I was then ready for the Might Putty!

After cutting 4 pieces of thin coat-hanger sized rod to insert in the 4 holes, I mixed the putty - one hole at a time, and then forced it into the depressed area an around the rod, wiggling the rod to keep the hole clear, and patting it down to make a basic Level condition. It was not until I got to the last hole - that I thought to use a stiff plastic Spreader - to pat it down in a true flat surface! (The others were already too hard to mold any more by that point.)

After letting them cure for about 10 more minutes - I got out the Heat Gun again - and gave them a bit of acceleration. Then - I started to mask off the area around each sides two holes, and once that was done - I shot them again with rust Primer, for a few coats and let them cure for another day!

After Removing the masking and paper, I chose the size of Screw Nuts (10-24), and drilled the insert hole for them. Unfortunately - I only had handy 1/4" drill bits, and needed a bit larger. So - I took a Round file and began to work the holes to make them larger - until the screw nut just slipped in.

Unfortunately - I made one hole a touch too large, and so - after installing the screw nuts, and fitting the cover, and testing the fit with  bolts - the loose one pulled up. I will have to get a fresh one - and start again - but likely use a bit of fresh Mighty Putty with the install - or some other Epoxy - and let it cure before testing the tightening again!

Here are the two covers in place - with the smaller Single Batter Box Cover forward, and the large - 4-Battery Cover Aft:

Once that test fit is in place - the next step is to secure spacers for the flanges - using 1/2" thick Pink Builders Extruded Foam, adhesives, and Epoxies, etc. to set up a hard and level offset to raise the cover flanges up so as to clear the wiring that enters the battery box from the back face.

A Couple Free EV Fest 2012 Tickets for my Followers!

Coming to EV Fest 2012? Want in for Free? Just start By Clicking Here to get your 100% Discounted Advance Guest Tickets  - On Me!

Oh - and I am getting some time to work on Electricfly - Have the Single Battery Box Cover Clips installed so I can Clip down and lock the Battery under a cover, as well as a Hold Down - keeping it away from prying fingers when I take it to shows - Like EV Fest 2012 Electric Vehicle Show!

Looking for More EV Fest 2012 Information - Come over to the site and See the Exhibitors, under the 'About' Menu item, or Get Tickets information under 'Tickets, etc. - go to EV Fest 2012 Electric Vehicle Show Website!

EVCO EV Expo in Ottawa, Ontario - 1

Sitting in Brockville, on my way to the Electric Vehicle Council of Ottawa`s EV Expo! Have a stop to make' but should be there by lunch! I will see if I can get some good pics and info posted later.