With the cooling weather - I have been attempting to get the Priming work finished and get the parts of the car I had been working on - painted.
The Roof was the start of this direction - and there were still some dimples and ripples in that - but I have managed to sand and fill with primer and get another coat of white paint up on the roof to seal it in, so hopefully that will hold over the Winter!
The Roof had been painted already - but in trying to sand and fill the remaining dimples - I felt since I had sanded through a few spots to the primer - I might as well give it a full coverage fresh coat of the Grey Primer - and then re-finish it with White Paint! I managed to get down a rough coat of White, but will likely have to sand it back again in spring!
The Hood - on the other hand - seems to have gotten behind the weather curve, and my available time - and still needs a few more priming and sanding cycles to smooth out some dimples and ripples, particularly at the forward edge.
I am trying to get at least as much done before snow comes, but the rain is no help too! Same with the freezing temps and working outside in the open just kills the deal!
I have been Mostly Wet Sanding with 240 Grit Wet or Dry paper, and moving to 320 Grit - Wet Sanding was already happening on the White Roof, before I re-Shot the Grey Primer!
Once I can clean up the dimples and ripples - I will start moving up from 240 to 320 - and on to 400, 600, and 800, If I have the patience for it, between paint layers.
I might top out at a medium level until I can get some of the other body parts taken car of first! Things like the Fenders and quarter panels and Doors, at least!
There is also the matter of the continuing under body - deep rust and metal mice chewing away at the car! After all - it is a 1989 Pontiac Firefly under the Electricfly project!
Sunday, December 16, 2012
Drip, Drop, Drip - Open Primer Needs a Cover!
Friday, August 10, 2012
Put a Lid On it! (Battery Boxes Get Covered!)
Not yet finished - but on it's way - finally! After having the Battery Box Covers made up for the rear Battery Boxes (long ago!) - I have finally got started on getting them fitted!
Since I had the batteries out - I started work on getting the cover installed for the single.
There was a flat strap around the edge - but not wide enough to hold the clamp down bracket - so I cut two pieces of 1/16" x 1" flat aluminum bar about 1.25" long, and secured them in place using 'Mighty Putty' Epoxy that I had, clamped them in place, and let them cure for a day.
Then I used special Double Sided Sticky sheets, to temporarily hold the clips in place, aligning them by putting the lid on and clipping them to the closed position. After Carefully unlocking the lid, I clamped the clips in place one by one, and drilled first one hole, then bolted it and checked the cover fit - tweaking it for any alignment needs, before clamping the clip again to drill and bolt the second hole. I Did the same on both sides, then finished to tighten down the bolts.
With the single Battery Box Cover in Place - I began to deal with the issues of the main Rear Battery Box Cover and it's fit.
First - were the aft most flat edges, being at 90 degrees - they were scraping the plastic trim that was not in place when they were welded up, so I had to do some trimming and fitting - for a few fit cycles to get that right.
Then - was the issue of wire bundle clearance under the rear corners, and after hack-sawing, and grinding a few times, - I came up with cutting a much larger clearance, so I cut away more material, and used the 1" rotary File to Grind away and radius the corners for a safer, smoother clearance with fewer sharp edges.
Next - was the issue of the 4 original holes - that we first drilled in the side flanges along it's center-line, but they were along the edges of a dip, and on the side - where the hole - while vertical - would end up tipped inward on all 4 holes if I simply inserted the desired screw-nuts. So I decided to again get out the Mighty Putty - and simply use it to fill and level the space. First - I took my Wire Wheel (Actually - a synthetic replacement) in a 3" Dia. and using the Drill - I cleared away - Paint, Rust inhibitor, and underlying Rust, before using a small steam cleaner to cleanse the area of fine particles, dust, and crud. Drying that first with paper towel, and then my heat gun, I was then ready for the Might Putty!
After cutting 4 pieces of thin coat-hanger sized rod to insert in the 4 holes, I mixed the putty - one hole at a time, and then forced it into the depressed area an around the rod, wiggling the rod to keep the hole clear, and patting it down to make a basic Level condition. It was not until I got to the last hole - that I thought to use a stiff plastic Spreader - to pat it down in a true flat surface! (The others were already too hard to mold any more by that point.)
After letting them cure for about 10 more minutes - I got out the Heat Gun again - and gave them a bit of acceleration. Then - I started to mask off the area around each sides two holes, and once that was done - I shot them again with rust Primer, for a few coats and let them cure for another day!
After Removing the masking and paper, I chose the size of Screw Nuts (10-24), and drilled the insert hole for them. Unfortunately - I only had handy 1/4" drill bits, and needed a bit larger. So - I took a Round file and began to work the holes to make them larger - until the screw nut just slipped in.
Unfortunately - I made one hole a touch too large, and so - after installing the screw nuts, and fitting the cover, and testing the fit with bolts - the loose one pulled up. I will have to get a fresh one - and start again - but likely use a bit of fresh Mighty Putty with the install - or some other Epoxy - and let it cure before testing the tightening again!
Here are the two covers in place - with the smaller Single Batter Box Cover forward, and the large - 4-Battery Cover Aft:
Once that test fit is in place - the next step is to secure spacers for the flanges - using 1/2" thick Pink Builders Extruded Foam, adhesives, and Epoxies, etc. to set up a hard and level offset to raise the cover flanges up so as to clear the wiring that enters the battery box from the back face.
Tuesday, May 31, 2011
Electricfly Gets OK'd to fix!
This Past Thursday, my Insurange Adjuster for Western Assurance came to view the damage on my car (Finally) in front of the Body Shop! We are a Go! My attempt at saving time on thursday - by fetching a new hatchback from Discount Auto in Kitchener failed! The Part Looked the same, same style, car, etc., but did not match the specs of the hatch on the car!
The Metal frame above the glass - at center top, on my current one was 5.5" and on the one I picked up it was 4"!! The bolts mounting it fit, but it would not close!! So we had to go with fixing the current damaged hatch frame (Read - too much Bondo!) and adding a New Glass (Needed a new glass there anyway, and this is new, with the heater, and I saw on Monday - that it fits, but there is not window gasket or rubber wrap for the rear available, so we are going to go with painting it and working out a substitued sollution!
It is going to be painted White, and I will paint the roof white soon too, but need to clean up some now visible rust spots showing on the primer on the roof, first!
